up-cycled pallet primitive American flag

final product

As most people who follow my post know i love to up-cycle and re-purpose whenever possible. This project is no different. We used an old pallet and gave it a bit of funky, primitive, patriotic charm.

Supplies needed:

• pallet
• paint (red, white, and blue)
• 2" paint brush
• saw (demo saw works best)
• aluminum roof flashing
• heavy duty scissors or snips
• hammer and a few nails

stage 1; decide where to cut your palet.
I wanted to have the overall scale of a rectangle. So i measured my pallet across and it was 40" then measured down about 8 boards and it was 34" so that's where we made our cut @34"

stage 1 determining where to cut the pallet

stage 2; cutting your pallet
using a demo saw or sawzaw cut along the pallet slates in every place that the excess slats are attached (in our case three places) if you don't have a saw use the entire pallet and give it a bit more raw look.

stage 2 cutting to get desired look

stage 3; rough sand top surface and edges of pallet.
this helps clean up your pallet and aids in giving it more rustic appeal. be sure to use a mechanical sander (orbital or belt it really doesn't matter).

stage 3 rough sanding project

stage 4; dry brushing the pallet
because i want the over-all look to closely resemble a flag will use the mental picture of the American flag as reference. start first red stripe off to the right and lightly paint (you want to see sparatic paint coverage) in other words your project surface should show through. skip every other line and paint out flag pattern.

stage 4 red, white, and blue paint

stage 4 red stripes painted out

stage 5; painting the white stripes.
with a clean brush paint out white stripes with the same method used in stage 4. i left the first 4 boards free off paint where the blue field of stars will go.

stage 5 white stripes painted out

stage 6, painting the blue field for the stars.
start on the right side and paint towards the left. this helps give you a clean line where the field meets the stripes. paint out using same method as in above stages.

stage 6 painting out the star field blue

stage 7; cutting out stars from roof flashing.
the funky and primitive part of this project is all in the stars (you want them to be a bit off and odd looking).
Using 10' aluminum roof flashing cut 5 strips as wide as each slat of pallet. then cross cut into rectangles. stack into piles of 3-4 and cut out some funky shaped stars. BE CAREFUL FLASHING IS SHARP!!

stage 7 roof flashing for stars

stage 7 strips

stage 7 bundled rectangles

stage 7 my just-a-bit funky stars

stage 8, attach stars to pallet.
use small head nails (not finish nails they wont hold because heads to small) and randomly place and attach each row. we only used 16 stars to help achieve overall look (it's ART).

stage 8 attaching stars

this super fun and easy project has a great unfinished look and can be done in about 2hours (including dry time of paint)

also, because the project base was a pallet it will hang pretty easy with some good deck screws.

a quick fix to headlight hazing

If there's one thing that dates a car prematurely that yellowing-brown grunge corroding the headlights. The best fix can be a bit pricey, replacing the lens covers. If you're looking for an economical quick fix polish your existing ones. I've seen several video's that use a kit from the automotive store and the result is similar to our simple method below.

BEFORE                                                              AFTER 

Stage 1, assessing your approach to that grungy lamp cover.
The best approach is not the simplest take off the headlamp lens cover. This will allow you  to handle the cover without damaging your cars paint (we skipped these steps because each car will vary on the difficulty and method). If you choose not to take it off you can mask off the area to protect the cars paint.

stage 1, assessing your approach (to remove or not)

stage 1, grungy lens cover off

Stage 2, wet sanding the cover.
Using a sponge sanding block wrap block with 1500-2000 grit paper wet lens and start sanding. Make sure to sand complete area adding water when needed. Rinse the lens cover and sand paper then re-sand. Continue this process until you have completely removed the grunge from the cover. It may take a couple of minutes depending on the severity of grunge on your lens cover.

stage 2, wet sanding lens cover with 1500-2000 grit sand paper

Stage 3, polishing the cover with a sock and Colgate all white toothpaste.
Slip your hand into an old sock and squirt a dab of toothpaste on it (the toothpaste acts as a rubbing compound/scratch remover). Wet your lens cover and start polishing. This step is probably the hardest and takes some elbow grease. The lens final product is dependent on how well it gets polished. Be sure to add water when needed and re charge your sock with toothpaste. Keep polishing until you like the final result.

stage 3, polishing the lens cover with toothpaste

Stage 4, rinse and clean off cover then let dry.
When the cover is wet the final result will look deceiving. It has to totally dry and even then you may need more polishing. You'll know if it needs more polishing because it dries hazy.
 

stage 4, rinse clean and let dry off

Stage 5, (optional) clear coat lens cover with a crystal clear UV spray protective coating.
Per clear coat instructions spray lens cover with a minimum of (2) coats. Let cover dry completely then re-install. This optional step will give the lens added protection and add to the life of your finish.

stage 5, (the final product) lens cover coated and re-installed

In the end the final product is definitely worth your effort as a temporary substitution for cover replacement. The whole process (minus dry times for clear coat) takes about an hour and be sure to take caution when washing your car lens covers if you clear coated. Use a sponge so you don't scratch or damage the coating...

vintage white wash technique

Back in the late 80's early 90's a hot trend was to white wash furniture. Like all trends to much gets to be too much and the whole look died and became just another dated fad look in thrift stores.

It's time to revive it but with a subtle, fresh, vintage look.

In my opinion the key to a good vintage white wash let the projects original color toning be the behind the scenes star. In other words less is definitely more.

reclaimed lumber table with vintage white wash

Step 1, making your white wash solution.
The solution may vary from person to person but actually it's pretty simple 2 parts white latex paint 1 part water.

I like to use an old glass jar for my container for a couple of reasons; one, you can shake it up which mixes it really well. Second, you can store the excess for another time. Whatever mixing container you choose measure the height of it and divide by 3. The first 2/3rds will be for paint (mark it with a sharpie) the last 3rd is your water fill line (mark it with a sharpie).

dividing your container by 3 and marking fill lines

first add your white latex paint to fill line

now add water to fill line

put the lid on shack it up and it's ready

Step 2, (assuming your project is prepped and ready) apply the first layer of white wash.

Remember less is more.

Before you apply your first layer and after you dip your brush into the solution tamp off excess paint on a piece of cardboard or something like that. This prevents getting to many initial runs on first strokes. Only paint horizontally with this first layer stroke. As with any painting the pressure you apply to the brush determines the amount of paint to your project, ease into it...

tamping excess paint off your brush

first layer stroke horizontally

Step 3, second white wash layer.
After your first layer is dry use the same method with the exception of stroke direction, now use a vertical stroke. Adjust the amount of paint by using a heavier and lighter stroke. I like the base color to be the silent star so I use less solution.

second layer vertical stroke

The final product.
Remember to have fun with it and that nothing is perfect. If you get a little blotchy in some area's don't worry about it. The project is about the overall look you want to achieve...

corner detail of my table

mixing concrete for a smaller project

Infusing concrete in to a design can have a great impact on a projects overall result. I really like the way it adds a modern urban vibe to what ever I'm making. If you've been reluctant to use it in your projects don't let it intimidate you anymore. It's pretty awesome stuff.

Stage 1, getting your mix supplies ready.
For most smaller projects I'll use a bucket mix (not shown below in the pic of things you may need). There's some benefits to using this mix method. First it contains the mix really well, second they're cheap, third it's perfect for small mixes, and fourth garage space is kind-of a premium (buckets prevent the need of the additional space a wheelbarrow takes up). 

Supplies required:

• Concrete
• mixing container
• additional bucket of water on hand for tools and clean up
• hose with nozzle or additional bucket of water
• mixing stick or drill and mix attachment
• scoop cup
• trowel
• concrete color (if desired)

things you may need

Stage 2, starting your mix.
What ever your chosen mix container add just a bit of water to the bottom and sides of it. It prevents the concrete from clumping, sticking, and makes it easier to get a good mix (I leave about 2" of water on the bottom).

stage 2, pre-wet the mixing container

Stage 3, protect your mixing area.
Lay out something to mix your concrete on. You will splatter and spill it happens especially if you use a drill motor for mixing. I use a scrap piece of cardboard but anything that can be spread out will work.

stage 3, protecting your area

Stage 4, adding concrete.
With your scoop dump 2-3 scoops then start mixing. It's better to go slowly especially if your manually mixing and add as needed to get the proper consistency (pancake batter/ oatmeal) both work well. For a couple of bucks make life easier and buy a drill attachment (it makes quick work of it).

stage 4, slowly add concrete and mix

stage 4, this mix is to wet add concrete

stage 4, this is how I like it

Stage 5, to tint or not to tint?
Sometimes I like to add coloring to get a richer color in my concrete. This step is totally dictated by you and your projects over all look. In this case I'm adding a charcoal coloring. Just squirt in as much or little that you want and then mix in.

stage 5, adding color tint

stage 5, coloring mixed in and concrete ready to use

Stage 6, clean up.
Use that additional bucket of water for clean up and setting dirty concrete tools in. Be sure to dump your mess in an appropriate area. I use a spot in my backyard kinda dedicated to the left over concrete junk...

stage 6, clean up

Here's a couple of recent projects that I have done using the bucket mix method.

stool with up-cycled desk legs

the base to my mid-century modern floor pendant

In the end concrete is pretty easy to work with. Yes, it's a bit messy but it really brings an additional element of material to a project that often makes it super cool.

Go for it, use it and please post some photo's of your work...

A really cool concrete stool

I'm a huge fan of making things and challenging your creativity. Every thing about a project excites me and gets me pumped!! Every so often I'll come across an idea that has a great result with minimal effort.

Here's a really fun and simple weekend project to help fuel you; a heavy duty modern concrete stool. It will cost you about $15.00 bucks for material and the final product is pretty cool.

Materials required:

• (1) bag of Quickcrete 5000 cement
• Plastic tub
• (3) legs of any kind
• polyurethane (if desired)

final product

Stage 1,  acquiring your legs.
There's several directions we can go for legs. You can use a dowel and cut it into three equal lengths. If you choose this option just be sure to use one about the diameter of a closet rod. You can make your own, or do as we did, and find a junked chair with able legs. What ever you decide to do make sure they all have equal lengths (16" makes a good stool height).

stage 1, our leg choice

stage 1, my three legs all cut to equal lengths @ 16".

Stage 2, choose your tub for the concrete form.

When looking for the perfect tub form you want to make sure the bottom is smooth with minimal indentations. You can get a toy tub at the big box stores for a few bucks or just use a five gallon bucket. Either one work's really good. The only difference is the final product size. The bucket is a bit smaller, I personally like the bigger tub version.

stage 2, the concrete form

Stage 3, mix your concrete.
Mixing concrete isn't as intimidating as one might think. It's actually pretty simple. Using a five gallon bucket add just a bit of water (this helps prevent concrete from collecting around the outer edge unmixed and sticking to the bucket). Scoop in some Quickcrete 5000 concrete then add a bit more water (go slow with the water) add just enough to mix. You want to have the final consistency of pancake batter. Adding to much water can make for a weaker final product. You can manually mix with a big paint stick or something of the sort. If you prefer buy a mixer attachment for your drill, it makes quick work of mixing just don't gun the drill motor or concrete will be all over.


Stage 4, pour the concrete in and set your legs.
Find a good safe place to locate your form so it wont be accidentally touched. Once you have the right concrete mixture pour it into your form. You want to have no less than 2" thickness (the more you use the heavier your stool). you may want to mark the inside of your form so you don't exceed your determined thickness.

Once the concrete is in the form agitate it with a palm sander. Go all around the form with the sander to remove air pockets. It makes for a better cure and a better looking product.

Now take your legs and push them into the concrete. Be sure to hit the bottom then lift up just a bit to allow concrete back under the leg. Then rest each leg on the inside wall of the tub/bucket form in the position you want. I chose to place mine about 2" from the edge.

stage 4, legs set and ready to let cure

Stage 5, let stool cure for a minimum of 2 days.
Don't be tempted to touch until you reach that second day about 40-48hours later.


Stage 6, turn over and lift off form.
This is where you'll get a chance to feel how heavy your project is. Gently turn it over and work the form off by squeezing, turning, and lifting. it should slide out pretty easy.

stage 6, turned right side up

stage 6, with the tub form lifted off

Stage 7, Keep as is or polyurethane.
Adding poly will give the project a more polished look. If you choose to add poly apply a thin coat let dry do a light sand and then repeat.

stage 7, adding poly

Our final product is a really cool modern stool that you can make for yourself. I liked this project so much I'm making custom bar stools. Same process with just a bit longer legs...

the funky (LED) globe pendant

I came across a super cool idea for that old globe collecting dust... a kinda funky looking pendant light. What a perfect fixture for a reading room  or an office space. It's fun, simple, and makes a really unique conversation piece.

For this project you'll need a globe, light kit from the hardware store, and maybe a couple of other things that you might not already have.  

the final product

Stage 1, disassembling your globe. 

Once you have your globe all you need to do is take it apart. Mine was pretty simple to pull out of it's fixture. Start at the top pop it out and then lift out the bottom. 

stage 1, taking it apart

Stage 2, where to cut for making pendant.

This stage is all laid out for you on the globe just pick a horizontal line and start cutting along it with a box knife. I used an up and down motion with the knife it helped me stay along my cut line. If you want to make two pendants cut along the equator and you'll have two halves. I wanted more of the diameter so I lost Antarctica and the South end of a couple more countries. 

 

stage 2, splitting the globe

Stage 3, sand the edges where you split your globe.
Use a 150 grit and sand off the cardboard area's to clean up the fixture. If your cut was rough this step will help you flatten it out so it looks good.

stage 3, sanding edges

Stage 4, stain or paint the inside then poly.
I chose to stain the inside of mine with a dark walnut. Whatever method you use give it a couple of coats and the proper time for drying. Once dried give both the inside and outside a coat of poly, let dry and do it again. You may even want a third coat?

stage 4, applying first coat of stain

stage 4, inside after second coat

stage 4, the first coat of poly on the outside.

Stage 5, drill your light fixture hole.
I'm using an LED pendant fixture and my hole needs to be 1 1/4" to accommodate the light. A hole that size is best done with a hole saw, it makes a cleaner pass through. Your hole will depend on your light kit.

stage 5, drilling fixture mount hole

Stage 6, connecting the light kit.
Assemble the kit per kit instructions. If you're converting and improvising with another fixture than do what ever you need to do for assembly.

stage 6, assembling the light

stage 6, view of the fixture poking through the mount hole on globe

stage 6, what the pendant looks like once assembled

Again this is a super easy project that looks really cool when done. I don't have pics of it hanging because she's going straight to market...